미친 (mi-chin) : crazy

image from a protest in Seoul during one of the US beef (mad cow disease) protests. Note the 'mad cow' depicted here: sunflower behind ear.

I hate that, in Korea, wearing a flower in your hair symbolizes one being a crazy person.

Walk down the street with a lovely rose behind your ear-- the stunned stares that will burn, the gasps, the pointed fingers, the appalled mutters, the cackling laughter that festers in their bellies and bursts out in tiny silvery pieces, splattering on your face or back.

I had my first taste of this just 2 weeks after I'd arrived.


I'd gone to the orientation in Seoul for the new coming teachers. It was my second day there-- the day after I first met Sam.

A small group of us had taken a walk to some nearby bridge, where I saw some lil' yellow flowers sprouting here and there (commonly known as weeds. but i usually find the weeds to be some of the most beautiful.) Not surprisingly, I picked one and giddily put it in my hair. I remember Sam smiled and said "I want to be one, too!" and plunked one behind his right ear. After getting back to the orientation center for yet another lecture, one of the Korean group leaders there saw us and lost it. He was staring and stopped us, laughing, clapping his hands in amusement. He gestured towards our ears and said, "Whyyyyy??" *cue more laughing* We happily said, "They're pretty!" He said, "Crazy! Crazy people! In Korea, this means you're crazy!!" Sam and I looked at one another, shrugged... didn't get it and didn't care much. Perhaps this should've been some sign of what was to come-- some small reflection of Korea's culture and perception-- but I soon forgot about his reaction at all and what is it anyway they say about hindsight?



That was last September. Lots of flowers soon started dying after that and I guess it wasn't until they woke up again this year that I started to have more experiences like this.



I remember with the arrival of spring, my hair splashed with pretty daisies or wildflowers, I'd be going about the day and receiving plenty of glaring stares. But, this is pretty standard any ol' day. Some white girl struttin' down these little Asian streets, the old Korean ladies snarling at my exposed shoulders, or poking my thigh while waiting at a crosswalk, pointing out the sequins on my skirt. I've grown accustomed to it. But I did notice an increase in attention, especially in the head/hair area.


Just last week, Sam and I went to the rose garden nearby. On our way we found pretty yellow flowers. Picked some. Wore some. Later in the day, we're strolling through the street farmer's market when I bump into who I call 'coffeeman'. [I meet this man once a week who owns a coffeehouse with an in-house roaster. He's interested in English. I'm interested in coffee. We share some words, experiences, and one another's company.] We stop to say hi. He nods in recognition and smiles. I ask him "How's it going?" and he just looks up at sam and points at his ear. cocks his head to the side, takes a deep breath in and says "what? what?" takes another breath and shakes his head side to side "what? why? why?" I say, "oh, we went to Munsu stadium and picked some flowers and saw the roses." He says "oh, no. Crazy. This means crazy person. If you wear flower, it means you're crazy." I just thought how silly and told him, "oh, no. flowers are good and okay" He continues to laugh and stare in disbelief.



Moseyin' on, we stop in a place we call 'butterflylady'. [She's this ridiculously sweet and cute korean, maybe 28, who has a cute little boutique with all kinds of jewelry, trinkets and incense from different parts of the world. her sign outside has a butterfly on it.] When we walk in, box of raspberries in arm to give her a scoop, she immediately busts out laughing. She comes out from behind the front counter, stands right in front of us and is bent over, nearly falling down in hysterical laughter. And, of course, goes on to tell us how we're crazy. How flowers in hair is for crazy people... at this point it was just redundant-- to the point that it just started to bother me.



Next time I meet coffeeman, I ask him where this comes from-- why is it that flowers in your hair means you're crazy in Korea? He tells me (in the best way he can) that in 'ancient', there was a lady who would put flowers all in her hair and run down the streets, maniacally laughing and hitting her head. The following school day, I ask my co-teacher where this comes from. She tells me that it's because it's from the movies. In movies, crazy people have flowers in their hair. I ask one of the women at my piano academy. She tells me that it's because they grow in the ground and don't belong on your head. That it's crazy to put it there.



It seems either they don't even know why it's considered crazy, or they have many reasons why. It's hard to say. But, I'm goin' with the former. Either way... this has come to really irk me. And most definitely it's compounded by the fact that I am finding myself grow a bit tired or bitter with certain aspects of the culture. There are plenty of things I don't understand-- things I don't even agree with-- but still, I'm open. I'm flexible. I'm adaptable. I expected shifts and changes. I was immersed in a totally foreign culture, and it's part of the deal. But, flowers in the hair being a national symbol for insanity... well... i think it's... stupid.


And I start to feel even more driven to do it now. Shit, imma drown my head in dandelions! Cover my crown in cyclamens! I know that most the natives here find me to be some strange spectacle anyway, an alien life-form who speaks a menacing language... might as well appear so whilst adorned with lovely flowers. Threaded with nature's feathers and seeds.